1.31.2011

Roasted Butternut Squash Soup from Frankies Spuntino


I bought The Frankies Spuntino Kitchen Companion & Cooking Manual in December and have been reading chapters here and there ever since. Laid-back, but straight-forward, it's fun and full of stories about the two guys from Brooklyn behind some of my favorite restaurants. Only this weekend did I realize it looks more like a bible than a cookbook. Based on the title, I'm sure this was intentional, and after making my first recipe, I'll be referring to it regularly.

I've been looking for a really good butternut squash soup for a while. Thanks to the Franks, I've finally found one and it's easier than ever. Others I've tried call for coconut milk or chicken stock and all sorts of other ingredients. With sweet potato, white pepper, Chinese five-spice powder and water, their recipe reminded me that with cooking, and most things actually, more is less.

I had an enormous butternut squash that took longer to roast than I expected, so I made a big salad to hold me over. By the time it was tender enough to blend, I was starving. I snapped a picture of the squash and sweet potatoes when they came out of the oven, but never got around to documenting the final product. Pureed soup isn't the most photogenic anyway, but looks aside, it was silky smooth and one of the best I've made. The recipe calls for a teaspoon of honey, but it was sweet enough on its own that I barely needed any. I loved it as a light dinner with a piece of buttered spelt toast. It was comforting with a little kick. Healthy, too, which made me appreciate it even more when I came down with a cold the next day.

Roasted Butternut Squash Soup
From The Frankies Spuntino Kitchen Companion & Cooking Manual

Serves 4 to 6

1 butternut squash (2 to 2 1/2 pounds), halved and seeded
1/2 sweet potato
A couple splashes of olive oil
Fine sea salt
Freshly ground white pepper
1/2 teaspoon Chinese five-spice powder, or more to taste
1 cup water
1 teaspoon honey, or more to taste

1. Heat the oven to 350 degrees F. Coat the squash and sweet potato with a light slick of olive oil and season with salt and pepper.

2. Arrange the squash cut side up on a baking sheet, stick the half potato on there with it, and roast for 1 hour, or until both are very tender. Let cool slightly.

3. When the vegetables are cool enough to handle, scoop the flesh from the skin and combine in a blender. Add a large pinch of salt, the pepper, the five-spice powder, water, and honey and blend until smooth. Taste and add more honey if you want it sweeter or a tiny pinch more of five-spice powder to round out the flavor.

4. Pour the soup into a pot and reheat, then ladle into bowls, nice and hot.


1.28.2011

Little Piglet List: The Best of Bococa

{One Girl Cookies, my favorite place in Bococa}

When Daniel and I moved four years ago, I wrote a post about my favorite places in Boerum Hill, Cobble Hill and Carroll Gardens, a group of neighborhoods known as Bococa. Since some spots have closed and I've found many new favorites, it's time to update the list. I've added categories to make it easier to read and included a few recommendations that aren't food-related. If you've never been to Brooklyn, I hope my list inspires a trip.

COFFEE 
Cafe Pedlar
210 Court Street (at Warren), Cobble Hill
Most people go for the Stumptown coffee. It's where I stop for chai tea and snacks before movies at Cobble Hill Cinemas or trips to Cobble Hill Park. The olive oil cake and blackforest bread are good for breakfast and I could eat their pretzel knot with brie and butter  any time of day.

SWEETS
One Girl Cookies
68 Dean Street (between Smith and Boerum Place), Boerum Hill
By far my favorite bakery in Brooklyn. I love the light blue walls, the swirly brown wallpaper, the buttery cupcakes and the cookies with pretty names. I'm addicted to their homemade yogurt and granola, too.

Nunu Chocolates
529 Atlantic Ave (near 3rd Ave), Boerum Hill
A lovely couple and self-taught chocolate makers, Nunu's owners use a single origin cocoa bean from a family farm in Colombia to make hand dipped caramels, ganaches and and other treats in their small shop. A big window encourages visitors to watch. Unlike other sweet shops, they serve beer and wine and are open till 9pm every night.

Betty Bakery
448 Atlantic Ave (between Bond and Nevins), Boerum Hill
When Daniel and I got married, we met with Cheryl Kleinman in a commercial kitchen on Atlantic Avenue to design our cake. A few years later, she and another cake designer added this bakery to the space. They have a big selection of sweets, but I usually lean toward the lemon bundt cake.

Brooklyn Farmacy & Soda Fountain
513 Henry Street (at Sackett), Carroll Gardens
I'll always think of Brooklyn Farmacy as the place that introduced me to egg creams and Early Bird granola. It's one of those neighborhood sweet shops that everyone wants and kids of course are more than welcome. On my first visit, the owner treated me and a friend to some samples while our boys ran laps around the place. Oh, and the the back room is stocked with boardgames.

Blue Marble
196 Court Street (at Wyckoff), Cobble Hill
I was disappointed when a Tasti D-Lite opened on Court Street and not surprised when it closed and Blue Marble took its place. Best ice cream in Brooklyn, hands down. The sorbets are always tempting, but the strawberry ice cream makes me weak in the knees.

Sweet Melissa
276 Court Street (between Butler and Douglass), Cobble Hill
Before Cafe Pedlar opened up, I'd always stop by Sweet Melissa for six gingernsaps (crispy with an extra spicy kick) and a cup of milk before movies at Cobble Hill Cinemas. Now, I can rotate between the two.

RESTAURANTS
Saul
140 Smith Street (between Bergen and Dean), Boerum Hill
For a special occasion, Daniel and I favor Saul, one of a few restaurants in Brooklyn that has a Michelin star. It used to be a stone's throw away from our apartment, and though it felt funny to walk so little for a fancy meal, we did it any way.

Bar Tabac
128 Smith Street (on corner of Dean), Boerum Hill
A Boerum Hill fixture, Bar Tabac was also steps away from our apartment. The food is standard French fare, but you know what I really miss? The live jazz and bluegrass bands they have on the weekends. During the warmer months, the music would sneak through our windows.

Bacchus
409 Atlantic Ave (at Bond), Boerum Hill
A French bistro that holds a place in my heart for two reasons. My friends Mark and Allison had a lovely wedding there and it was where I celebrated my 26th birthday (or was it my 25th?) with a big group of friends. The food is good, but the backyard garden is better.

Lucali
575 Henry Street (at Carroll), Carroll Gardens
Inspired by Di Fara and way better than Grimaldis, this is one of my favorite pizza places in Brooklyn.

Prime Meats
465 Court Street (at Luquer), Carroll Gardens
Frank Castronovo and Frank Falcinelli are building a mini-empire on Court Street. With Prime Meats, they focus on German-influenced food, old-fashioned cocktails and local ingredients. I love the big, messy salads that are perfectly dressed and homemade soft pretzels. If only they took reservations and the wait on weekends wasn't so brutal.

Seersucker
329 Smith Street (between President and Carroll), Carroll Gardens
I love Seersucker for many reasons. They've brought solid southern food to Smith Street (not another French or Italian place). It's where I discovered Red Hook rose and that scallops and watermelon make a surprisingly good combination. They're steps from the subway and are for open breakfast at 8am during the week. Parents take note: Trips to nearby Carroll Park are best with buttermilk biscuits.

 Chestnut
271 Smith Street (between Sackett and Degraw), Carroll Gardens
I love the huge hidden garden and it doesn't get much better than homemade chocolate chip scones and poached eggs with wild mushrooms, toast and caramelized shallots for brunch.

Frankies 457
457 Court Street, Carroll Gardens
Frankies 457 is best with a bunch of friends because the bigger the group, the more Italian small plates you can sample. I'm partial to the pork braciole (make sure to get a side of gnocchi) and butternut squash ravioli. For a no-fuss dessert you'll never forget, their wine-soaked prunes are perfect. No reservations, lines are long and for warmer months, they have a wonderful garden.

Buttermilk Channel
524 Court Street (at Huntington), Carroll Gardens
Daniel and I like to go here on dates. The food is always top-notch and past meals have included duck meatloaf, fried chicken with waffles and a delicata squash tart. Maybe some day we'll bring the boys for brunch and see what they think of the $10 children's menu.

Breuckelen
268 Clinton Street (at Verandah Pl), Cobble Hill
Formerly Cafe on Clinton, a place where my friends Marie and Joe had one of the most intimate weddings I've ever been to, this landmark building is now home to Breuckelen, a restaurant with innovative food and a rustic fruit tart that my friend Olivia compared to those her French mother makes. Don't forget to check out the pretty row houses and adorable Cobble Hill Park next door. 

Henry Public
329 Henry Street (between Atlantic Ave and Pacific Street), Cobble Hill
Many people go for the old-fashioned cocktails. I prefer the humongous turkey-leg sandwich with fries.

Brucie
234 Court Street (at Baltic), Cobble Hill
A casual Italian restaurant and market that's good for a big group of friends or a quick meal at the bar. The space is warm and funky with mason jars covering light bulbs and cool tiles along one wall. I love Eataly in Manhattan, but would be just as happy with any of Brucie's prepared foods.

Cafe Luluc
214 Smith Street (between Butler and Baltic), Cobble Hill
I've had many long lunches at Cafe Luluc. I love the bright red leather booths and for a French bistro, they make some pretty good fish tacos.

SPECIALTY FOOD SHOPS 
Los Paisanos
162 Smith Street (at Bergen), Cobble Hill
The first year I lived in Boerum Hill, I begrudgingly bought my meat at Key Food. Then a co-worker told me about Los Paisanos. In the neighborhood for over 40 years, this is a place that seems so Brooklyn. After a few visits, I felt like family. I'm a sucker for their specialty sausage, grilled olives and pumpkin ravioli.

Sahadi's
187 Atlantic Ave (between Court and Clinton), Cobble Hill
A Middle Eastern market that's great for olives, coffee, dried fruit, cheese, sacks of spices, nuts, grains, and fresh loaves of bread, Sahadi's just might be the place I've missed most since leaving the neighborhood. I'd always go in for a few things and leave with a cart full of stuff. Go during the week, if you can. Weekends are a nightmare.

Fish Tales
191 Court Street (at Bergen), Cobble Hill
When I lived in Boerum Hill and Brooklyn Heights before that, I would buy my meat at one shop, my cheese at another, and for seafood, I'd go to Fish Tales. The fish is by far some of the freshest you'll find.

Smith & Vine
268 Smith Street (at Degraw), Cobble Hill
I always make a beeline for their $12 and under table, the perfect place to get a good bottle for cheap.

Stinky 
261 Smith Street (between Douglass and Degraw), Cobble Hill
Opened by the owners of Smith & Vine, Stinky is conveniently located across the street. Cheese is the star here, but they carry all sorts of other gourmet stuff. I like to give their Stinky onesies as baby gifts.

HOUSEWARES
Enamoo
109 Smith Street (between Atlantic and Pacific), Boerum Hill
This quirky shop has everything from plants to armchairs. Our apartment in Boerum Hill didn't have air conditioning so we picked up a few vintage fans that I'm sure we'll have for years. Their selection of Bklyn shirts and sweatshirts is good, too.

A Cook's Companion
197 Atlantic Ave (between Court and Clinton), Cobble Hill
Whenever Daniel and I had big dinner parties, I always found myself running to Cook's Companion for a tablecloth or a ramekin and on one occasion, a 9-quart Le Creuset.

KIDS
Acorn
323 Atlantic Ave (between Smith and Hoyt), Boerum Hill
Full of handmade and wooden toys that don't blink or make noise, this is my favorite place to buy gifts or new foods for Nico's play kitchen.

CLOTHES
Dear Fieldbinder
198 Smith Street (at Baltic), Cobble Hill
Overall, I don't like shopping for clothes, unless I'm at Dear Fieldbinder. The owner and her staff help, but don't hover and I always end up wearing everything I buy again and again. It's where I always go when I need a new dress or something special.

SHOES
Soula
185 Smith Street (at Warren), Cobble Hill
My three pairs of shoes that get the most compliments are all from Soula, including La Canadienne winter boots that my friend Karlyn loves to tease. Looks can be deceiving. They might be suede with a wedge heel, but they're unbelievably warm and waterproof.

GARDENING
GRDN
103 Hoyt (between Atlantic and Pacific), Boerum Hill
At our old apartment in Boerum Hill, we had a lavender tree, roses, hydrangeas and grass that Daniel had to mow. For the three years that we could garden, we splurged on plants and other outdoor essentials here.

HOLISTIC THERAPIES
Element Natural Healing Arts
518 Henry Street (at Union), Carroll Gardens
I started going to Element for acupuncture in 2002. Those days, the owners were working out of a doctor's office in Brooklyn Heights. Now they're in a much bigger space. Acupuncture is still their specialty, but they offer yoga, massages, other holistic therapies and even occasional dinners with local chefs on their roof deck as well. My midwife recommended acupuncture to kickstart labor with Leo. I went to Element for a few visits and wouldn't you know, he arrived right his due date.


1.27.2011

Pumpkin Chocolate Chip Squares, Take Two


After a pumpkin smoothie experiment failed miserably the other day, I put some leftover pumpkin puree to better use. I made Pumpkin Chocolate Chip Squares, a recipe from Everyday Food that I mentioned here a few years ago. Back then, I managed to sneak in baking sessions during naptime, something I don't think I'll figure out again for a while. This time, I made them at night, an hour before Nico went to bed. He hadn't even eaten dinner yet, so it really wasn't the best timing. Daniel convinced him to have a few bites of chicken and some sweet potatoes before he housed one, fresh from the oven.

I used less sugar again and bittersweet chocolate chips instead of semisweet. I didn't realize we were out of eggs until I needed one. I searched online for substitutions and one site suggested mashed banana. I was skeptical, but it worked surprisingly well and made them even better. 

Pumpkin Chocolate Chip Squares
Adapted from Everyday Food

Makes 24

2 cups all-purpose flour (spooned and leveled)
1 tablespoon pumpkin-pie spice
1 teaspoon baking soda
3/4 teaspoon salt
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature
1 cup sugar
1/2 large banana, mashed
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1 cup canned pumpkin puree
3/4 package (about 9 ounces) bittersweet chocolate chips

Directions
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line bottom and sides of a 9-by-13-inch baking pan with foil, leaving an overhang on all sides. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, pie spice, baking soda, and salt; set aside.
2. With an electric mixer, cream butter and sugar on medium-high speed until smooth; beat in banana and vanilla until combined. Beat in pumpkin puree (mixture may appear curdled). Reduce speed to low, and mix in dry ingredients until just combined. Fold in chocolate chips.
3. Spread batter evenly in prepared pan. Bake until edges begin to pull away from sides of pan and a toothpick inserted in center comes out with just a few moist crumbs attached, 35 to 40 minutes. Cool completely in pan.
4. Lift cake from pan (using foil as an aid). Peel off foil, and use a serrated knife to cut into 24 squares.

See this post and many other treats on Sweet as Sugar Cookies


1.26.2011

Windsor Terrace is Waiting, Blue Marble



Obviously I was excited when Lia's Ices first opened in Windsor Terrace. For one, I loved their sign. It felt like a place just for me, complete with smiley sweets. Close to Prospect Park and The Pavilion, it was on quiet side street with a few benches. I could sit while Nico played on the sidewalk, ice cream dripping down his arms. On occasion, we'd strike up a conversation with another family. In a big, busy city, benches work wonders at bringing people together. I really wanted to love the place. We shared a name after all, but everything I tried was kind of blah, including the soups and smoothies. The gelato always seemed sort of runny and while I ate my fair share of rainbow Italian ices when I was little, food coloring freaks me out these days.

It's always sad to see a local business go away, but it's a little less upsetting if another takes its place. I'm crossing my fingers for Blue Marble. Their ice cream is the best in Brooklyn if you ask me. The strawberry is tart, not too sweet, and one of my favorite things in the summer, or on a snowy, winter day. Dark chocolate, root beer, and peach are also out of this world. They closed their Atlantic Avenue location a few months ago, a place with where lines regularly ran out the door. I hear their landlord raised the rent, so maybe a former refreshment shack would be more budget-friendly?





1.25.2011

Mondays at Eataly


I have a few things to tell you today, but not much time, so I'll be quick.

1. If you haven't been to Eataly yet, it's time to change that.

2. If you haven't heard of Eataly, I'll assume you don't live in NY. It's been called an Italian emporium. A temple. A foodie mecca. A culinary funhouse (my favorite). Intrigued? Catch up here.

3. If you plan to visit, here's some advice. Go on a Monday night. I've spent a few Mondays there and it's always been somewhat calm and easy to float from place to place. From what I've heard, the weekends are Crazy with a capital C.

4. If you can't decide which restaurant to try once you're there, start at Le Verdure. Don't let the all-vegetable menu scare you. Order the bruschetta. Piled high with roasted Brussels sprouts or acorn squash with sage and butter, each piece will be brawny and require a knife and fork. Le Verdure's the closest thing to this place that I've found in New York. 

5. If you're a food blogger, remember to take photos at the beginning of the night. If you forget your camera, make sure to go with a friend who has an iPhone and make her take photos for you. If possible, make her take pictures when you get there, not at the end of your night.

6. If it's late and you're full and should be going home, end your visit at Caffe Lavazza. Trust me, even if I drink mostly decaf and recently admitted to not knowing much about espresso.

7. If you're lucky, you'll meet Mike, one of Manhattan's friendliest baristas and after you order a cappuccino, a torinese (espresso with chocolate and foam), and a teeny tiny apricot pastry to split three ways, he'll surprise you with samples of hot chocolate that's so thick you'll need a spoon, homemade whipped cream and a cross between a semifreddo and sorbet that you think was called an espressocrema.

8. If you're really lucky, a lady will walk by with a samples of chocolate panettone.

9. If you're crazy, you'll chase after her and ask for seconds.

Eataly
200 5th Ave at 23rd Street
646-398-5100




1.24.2011

Mini Pie Maker




If you follow food trends, you might have heard that cupcakes are so 2010. It's all about pie now, people. Considering how much time I've been spending at Dub Pies and Four & Twenty Blackbirds lately, these food forecasters seem to be on to something. If I lived somewhere that didn't have such good options, I would have begged for Breville's mini pie maker for Christmas. A machine that can make four pies (sweet or savory!) in eight minutes sounds pretty awesome to me. Apparently, others agree since I can't find a single site that has it in stock. I don't have space for another kitchen gadget and clearly don't need more reasons to eat pie, but I still signed up to get notified when it's available again. Just in case.

Photos from Williams-Sonoma



1.21.2011

Little Piglet List: Three Cookbooks


When I was pregnant with Leo, I started a book club with a group of moms. For our first meeting, we read a book about the Taj Mahal and ordered Indian food. Unlike other book clubs I'd been in, this one was serious. We always talked about the book. We usually hung out together with our kids and had choppy conversations about naps and discipline. It was refreshing to talk without interruptions about other topics. When some other friends heard about that book club, they decided to form one. Inspired to read a lot, I joined as well. We talked a bit about the book the first month, but by our second gathering, we focused more on the wine and food. By the time Leo was born, I could barely even start a book. One of the groups slowly dissolved around the same time and last month, I took an indefinite leave of absence from the other. For now, I'm focusing on cookbooks. On iVillage this week, I shared three of my current favorites.

In other news, I recently started writing for baby gooroo, a parenting site that covers pregnancy, breastfeeding, nutrition, news and more. Founded by Amy Spangler who has written a number of books about breastfeeding, it's a straightforward site that's easy to navigate and full of really helpful information about babies and young children. 

Fresh Picks is  a new weekly feature I'm writing that explains how to select, store and serve fruits and vegetables. The first one was about apricots. Today, I'm sharing ideas for cauliflower. Now that Leo's eating solids, I plan to refer to all of them a lot. In fact, I've been meaning to make a roasted cauliflower recipe I referred to this week for a while. Bon Appetit describes it as vegetable candy. I hope this is the weekend I finally do it.


1.20.2011

Nespresso CitiZ, You Complete Me


When our French press broke in November, we started considering a fancier machine. Daniel suggested something from Nespresso. I shot down his idea on the spot. I'm not even a big coffee drinker. I mostly drink decaf and have no problem downing a latte after dinner. Still, I can be picky about these things. Nespresso just seemed so mass produced. I didn't want to buy coffee in capsules for a machine called the CitiZ. That uppercase Z totally weirded me out. It still does. I cringed as I capitalized it for the title of this post. Oh, and George Clooney is Nespresso's brand ambassador. He's very handsome and all, but come on.

Then we spent Thanksgiving with our friends Doug and Karlyn. After dinner, Doug made each of us a homemade cappuccino using his cool Illy machine. They were wonderful, but he spent about a half hour on them. After cooking for us all day. It looked like a lot of work. Daniel just needs a quick jolt of caffeine in the morning and I'm happy with a cold glass of milk.

When December rolled around, Daniel hadn't replaced his French press and I was trying to think of a good Christmas present for him. Secretly, I started reading Nespresso reviews online. Almost everyone, people who seem to know a lot about coffee than I do, gave it rave reviews. One former barista turned food blogger even proclaimed: "The Nespresso CitiZ produces a perfect cup of espresso, one that rivals the depth and quality of the product that is served in European restaurants." Say whaaaaaat?

He went on to explain that the key to perfect espresso is the amount of pressure produced in the process. Most machines produce 15 bars while the pump-driven Nespresso produces 19. The result? A perfect cup of espresso with a golden layer of crema. Educating myself about the machine helped me swallow my pride. Quickly.

I decided to buy the Nespresso CitiZ D120. When Daniel tried to slip a small stovetop espresso maker into our cart at Ikea a few days later, I convinced him to put it back on the shelf. Dreaming about cappuccinos on Christmas morning, I forced him to open his present on Christmas Eve. We've been treating ourselves to fancy-pants drinks ever since.




Our mornings start early and are almost always a three-ring circus. Making a latte or cappuccino with the touch of two buttons is soothing. The milk frother is my favorite part of all and it's magical. It comes with two attachments: a whisk that makes a thick, puffy froth that needs to be scooped out with a spoon; the other one produces warm, foamy milk that's perfect for lattes or a cup of tea. Even Nico's a fan. I made this syrup the other day now that he regularly requests hot chocolate. There's also a cold froth option that will get a lot of use this summer, I'm sure.

I still don't know much about espresso, but during a rare moment of silence yesterday while Nico and Leo were napping, I started flipping through a manual called The Art of Espresso that came with our machine. I have a long way to go, but slowly, I'm learning a thing or two.




1.18.2011

Whiskey-Soaked Dark Chocolate Cupcakes

For my friend Mona's engagement party Saturday night, I volunteered to bring dessert. I thought about trying a new recipe, but came up with a better idea: I'd transform one of my favorite cakes from Melissa Clark into a boozy batch of cupcakes. This was a celebration after all, not a formal sit-down dinner. And I've been to plenty of parties where people prefer cocktails to sweets. I always need dessert and was determined to make something that would fit in. 

As I suspected, dark chocolate cupcakes with a cup of whiskey, plus a little extra brushed on top for good measure, were perfect for a Saturday night engagement celebration turned dance party. All 24 were quickly snatched up and devoured after we feasted on two types of fondue, lasagna, pork tenderloin, braised cabbage and a salad with pomegranate seeds.

Before making them, I searched online to see what kind of guidance I could find. Even though I've made the recipe as a bundt cake countless times, baking needs to be so precise. I found this site where a chef recommended adding an extra 1/2 cup of flour to give the cupcakes "structural assistance" which sounded good to me. I also cooked them for a lot less time. After about 28 minutes in my oven, they were perfect—light and moist with a sophisticated dark chocolate flavor that's rich, but not too sweet, with a welcome burst of whiskey.

I considered sprinkling powdered sugar on top too, but Daniel made a glossy ganache using bittersweet chocolate, cream and some butter to help dress them up a bit.  After that, he made white icing so we could write Mona and her fiance Jawad's initials on top. Time was running out by this point and we ended up writing on the cupcakes before they had fully cooled. They looked kind of sloppy at first, and reminded me of the bubble letters I used to favor back in middle school. I met Mona in 6th grade, so I could have said that was the look I was going for. Or maybe that Nico helped decorate them? Sadly, he didn't. This handiwork was all our own. Slowly, they took on a life of their own, and by the time we brought them to the party, they looked kind of cute. Mona and Jawad knew they'd been made with love and no one paid too much attention to the letters. The words dark chocolate and whiskey were way too distracting. 

Whiskey-Soaked Dark Chocolate Cupcakes with Chocolate Ganache Glaze
Adapted from Melissa Clark via The New York Times

For the cupcakes:
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened
2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
5 ounces unsweetened chocolate
1/4 cup instant espresso powder
2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder
1 cup whiskey, more for sprinkling
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
2 cups granulated sugar
3 large eggs
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
1 teaspoon baking soda

For the chocolate ganache via Heather Drive:
1/4 cup heavy cream
4 ounces bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
1 tablespoon unsalted butter, softened

1. Preheat oven to 325 degrees and line two cupcake pans with liners. In microwave oven or double boiler over simmering water, melt chocolate. Let cool.

2. Put espresso and cocoa powders in a 2-cup (or larger) glass measuring cup. Add enough boiling water to come up to the 1 cup measuring line. Mix until powders dissolve. Add whiskey and salt; let cool.

3. Using an electric mixer, beat 1 cup butter until fluffy. Add sugar and beat until well combined. Beat in the eggs, one at a time, beating well between each addition. Beat in the vanilla extract, baking soda and melted chocolate, scraping down sides of bowl with a rubber spatula.

4. On low speed, beat in a third of the whiskey mixture. When liquid is absorbed, beat in 1 cup flour. Repeat additions, ending with whiskey mixture. Divide batter evenly among liners, filling about 3/4 full. Bake about 25-28 minutes or until a cake tester inserted into center comes out clean.

5. Transfer cupcakes to a rack and using a pastry brush, brush each one with more whiskey.

6. While the cupcakes are cooling, heat cream in a small saucepan over medium heat until steaming, stirring constantly. Remove from the heat, add the chocolate and let stand for 5 minutes. Add the butter and stir until smooth.

7. Transfer to a small bowl and once they've cooled, dip the top of each cupcake to thoroughly coat.

8. Allow chocolate ganache to set before serving and storing.




1.14.2011

Little Piglet List: 25 Recipe Resolutions


I thought about posting my 2011 resolutions right here, but decided to keep them to myself. Except for one. You've probably already figured it out.

I want to write more this year.

I started This Little Piglet before I had kids. Back when I traveled a lot, planned parties and knew all the best restaurants in New York and abroad. I always wanted to write more. I just never got around to it. Eventually, I stopped writing altogether.

Life certainly isn't calmer now. Parenting is a different sort of busy and I have a lot less time for myself. Still, I'm trying to write whenever I can, even if it's late at night when I should be catching up on sleep. It's nice to have a creative space of my own. A place to share recipes, restaurants, inspiring people, sites I like, or stories about life in Brooklyn with two little boys.

Thanks to Sitemeter, the site I use to track stats, I know people are reading. Many find me via Google and probably just come for a certain recipe or restaurant and don't stick around. Others have subscribed through readers and seem to check in whenever I post something new. Even though most of you are keeping very quiet, it's nice to know you're out there. If you feel like commenting here or on Facebook, I'll be your best friend forever. It'd be so nice to hear from you.

So while I'm not going to share any personal, potentially embarrassing resolutions, I will tell you about 25 food-related ones that I recently shared on my blog for iVillage. I came up with the idea after frying a few strips of bacon—for the first time in my life—the other night. The bacon was for a very decadent quiche that I'll write about soon, but it got me thinking about all the other foods I've never made and cooking techniques I still must conquer.

I'll admit it's a pretty ambitious list. If I want to make some progress, I have a lot of work to do. Tons, actually. It's a good thing food resolutions are much more fun than personal ones. Plus, there's no real pressure to plow through them. It's best to check off promises like these slowly. One by one.

Calendar image from statingtheobvious via Etsy



1.13.2011

Yellow Cauliflower, Purple Potato and Emmentaler Gratin

Sometimes, a sleepless night can have a silver lining.

This was mine the other day after a long night with Leo. Cooking has a way of helping me get through the day when all I want to do is climb back into bed.

Except this time around, I did climb back in. Daniel started cooking. He made pork tenderloin with leeks, a pot of brown rice, and this simple cauliflower gratin with salt, pepper, some cream and grated Emmentaler on top. When I woke up, I added the purple potatoes, tucking them into any little pocket I could find, loving the deep, dark color they added to an already pretty dish.

After about 30 minutes in the oven at 400 degrees, it was golden and bubbly with a crispy, melty crust. We were too hungry and happy to have such a wonderfully warm and comforting meal that we dug in and forgot to take more photos. We even forgot how tired we were, for a little while at least. It was that good.




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1.12.2011

Dino


On Friday, I shared a list of restaurants I was considering for a date with Daniel. At first, 'Fatty Cue was winning. Then I saw my friend Dria at Chelsea Market that afternoon and she changed my mind. I saw Kiefer Sutherland there, too. I saw him at Five Leaves just a few weeks ago. I think he's following me.

But back to Dria. She told me she had a reaction to MSG when she went to 'Fatty Cue. I thought almost all places, even the ones that put weird pictures of food in their windows, had stopped using MSG, but apparently, it's having some sort of revival. Dria mentioned David Chang of Momofoku fame and said that he claims to use it, too. Daniel and I managed to score a coveted spot at Momofoku Ko for our anniversary in October and while we loved our meal, I felt like ass after. It's true. Back then, I thought it was from the heavy food—snail sausage and frozen foie gras, for example—but now I'm wondering if a certain controversial flavor enhancer was responsible.

I didn't want to feel like crap on my first night out in a while, so 'Fatty Cue was crossed off the list. I still want to go. Some day. That left Del Posto, El Almacen and Dino. We didn't feel like going into Manhattan and weren't in the mood for Argentinian food. We decided on Dino.

We shared an excellent caesar salad made with organic black and green kale and anchovy croutons, pork milanese with a refreshing apple and fennel slaw, and a slow-cooked ragu of meatballs and sausage with ricotta and rigatoni. For dessert, we split a warm chocolate cake with a cranberry compote, half a slice of tiramisu (a dessert that's never been my favorite), followed by chocolate cake round two.

Dino was small and cozy and it felt wonderful to be out on a Friday night. I hadn't realized just how much I missed being in a restaurant. It didn't take long to feel like the old days when we had regular dates, before we became the tired parents of two little boys. Even the wine was really good. We both loved the 2008 Kuyen from Valle del Maipo in Chile. It's one of a few bottles that you can pay for based on the amount that you drink. We had half and a glass each of another wine before that. It was a BIG night out. (We were home by 10:30.)

We tried to take a photo as we were leaving, but it was too dark. I went back yesterday and snapped one from my car. I hadn't noticed that greenish building above the restaurant the night I was there. Reminds me of a turtle's shell or maybe fish scales. Whoever lives there is lucky to have such a beautiful facade and a great neighborhood restaurant right downstairs. Oh and don't you just love the font they used to write Dino? I have a soft spot for that swirly D. The owners named the place after their 2-year old son and I hear it's really kid-friendly. Probably best to go back with the boys during the day because they serve breakfast and it looks divine.

Dino
222 Dekalb Avenue
Fort Greene, Brooklyn
718-222-1999






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1.11.2011

Grandma's Crumb Cake with Cranberries and Oats


On Sunday, I found an old bag of cranberries buried in my fridge. My high hopes for holiday baking hadn't exactly panned out. Some day I'll make this Cranberry Orange Cornmeal Cake, a recipe I've had bookmarked since 2008. I should have just thrown the whole bag out. I was supposed to be packing snacks for a trip to my cousin's in Connecticut when I found it. Instead, I emptied the cranberries on my kitchen counter and started making a pile of the sad, wrinkly ones. I put those little guys in the garbage and kept the rest.

Inspired by a cranberry buckle from Bklyn Larder that I had on Thanksgiving, I decided to make Grandma's Crumb Cake, an old favorite. Since I was already changing the recipe by adding cranberries, I decided to keep going. I substituted white whole wheat flour, which I only recently discovered after making these cookies for the second time, and for the crumb topping, I used light brown sugar and added oats. I also baked it in a smaller pan to ensure each slice was thick.

By the time the cake was ready, we were rushing to get out the door. I had planned on bringing it to Connecticut, but my hands quickly filled up with birthday presents, a diaper bag, gloves, scarves, hats and other stuff. I knew better than to try and balance a hot cake, too.  Sadly, Grandma's Crumb Cake with Cranberries and Oats would have to wait.

It wasn't until 10pm that I finally had a slice. The cranberries added tart bursts of flavor to each sweet bite, but the white whole wheat flour fell flat. It had made the batter too tough and the cake came out dry. The crumb topping however, was perfect. Each piece was fat and crackly with a golden flavor and the oats made it feel hearty, and slightly healthy. The recipe says to sprinkle the cake with powdered sugar, but since I was rushing by the time it was ready, I skipped this step. The cake was sweet enough and I didn't miss it.

A pint of blueberries has been hanging out in the fridge for the last few days. As long as they don't end up in a smoothie, or a snack trap, I'll be making Grandma's Crumb Cake the old way again soon, with a new twist or two.

Grandma’s Crumb Cake with Cranberries and Oats

Cake ingredients:
¾ cup of sugar
¼ cup butter, softened
1 egg
½ cup milk
2 cups flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
1 cup fresh cranberries, washed and drained

Crumb topping ingredients:
1 cup light brown sugar
2/3 cup flour
1/2 cup oats
½ cup butter
1 teaspoon cinnamon

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.

Cream the sugar and butter together. Add the egg and milk and mix well. Sift together the flour, baking powder and salt. Add to the sugar mixture. Fold in the cranberries. The mixture will be thick.

To make the topping, thoroughly combine the five ingredients, using your hands to help form big, round crumbs.

Spread the batter in an 8”x 8” x 5” baking pan. Sprinkle on the topping mixture and bake for 35-45 minutes.



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1.07.2011

Little Piglet List: 5 Restaurants

Starting today, I'm going to launch a Little Piglet List every week. I've always loved making lists. So much that my Mom once surprised me with "Lia's Lovely Lists" notepads. In college I carried a Filofax and scribbled random ones on blank pages in the back. Trips I wanted to take, places I'd been, books to read, future baby names. My blackberry now holds most of my lists. I even have one for Nico's funny sayings. How else would I remember gems like this: "It's nice to be naked sometimes. But only sometimes."

Daniel and I are going out to dinner this weekend. A night to ourselves is long overdue. I have lots of restaurant lists and my head is spinning with all the places we could try. Somehow I've narrowed it down to these five.

Dino
The owners of this Italian restaurant in Fort Greene named it after their 2-year old son. My Mom once said we should open a place and call it Cafe Nico. The manager and chef are both veterans of Frank, a restaurant I really like in the East Village.

Del Posto
I went to Del Posto when it first opened during my Food Network days. I thought it was so-so. The New York Times recently made it the first Italian restaurant to get 4 stars since 1974. I'm ready to give it another try.

Brucie
This Italian newcomer in Cobble Hill just crossed itself off my list. They're closed till January 11. I peeked inside while passing by a few weeks ago and it looks really cool and cozy. I remember when it was Cube 63 and a toy store before that.

El Almacen
The owner of Play told me about this Argentine spot, one of his neighborhood faves. I checked out their website and love its antique feel. Short ribs braised in Malbec sound nice.

Fatty 'Cue
This has been on my list for a long time. Fatty Crab is an old favorite and now they've brought Southeast Asian fermented funkiness and a whole helluva a lot of smoke" to Brooklyn. Sign me up! The bowl of noodles with meat juices, scallion and chili would be perfect on a snowy night.


Which would you choose? We're leaning toward Fatty 'Cue, but there's still time to decide, or to add more to this list.


Notepad image from LetterLoveDesigns via Etsy



1.06.2011

This week, I'm Elephant


At my Mom's birthday last week, my cousin and aunt gave Nico two books.
One was called A New Home for Beaver.
It's about a beaver, a pig and an elephant.
It wasn't long before Nico started calling me Elephant.
He was beaver.
Leo was pig.
Daniel was at work.
When he came home, we called him zebra.
Nico decided to build his own beaver house.
Around my desk.
The blanket covering the computer was the final touch.
He asked for my help with that.
I wonder if he's trying to tell me something. 
He did everything else himself.
Last night, I took down his beaver house after he went to bed.
When he woke up today, he was not happy that I had "destroyed" it.
"My beeeeeeeeeeaver house!"
He built it again.
Just like the beaver in the book.
I get a kick out of his design choices.
Such as the socks.
And the paper towel wedged between two pillows. 
His books always work their way into our lives.
TV shows too.
His Curious George phase was tough.
A monkey is really not the best role model.
Characters from books are better.
Speaking of books, I wish we lived closer to Powerhouse Books in Dumbo.
They have the most beautiful selection of children's books.
The ones by Mo Willems make us laugh the most.
Pigeon Finds a Hot Dog is a family favorite.
Nico used to quote that a lot.
"Oh for Pete's sake!"
They're turning Knuffle Bunny: A Cautionary Tale into a musical.
We bought tickets last weekend.
After reading that, Nico changed his lovey's name from Bear Bear to Knuffy.
But back to the beavers.
Last night, Nico and Daniel watched a documentary about beavers together.
Leo kept trying to watch too.
Once the boys were in bed, Daniel told me about it while we ate slices of bacon and cheese quiche.
I promise to give you that recipe soon.
Daniel said the documentary was like a reality show for beavers.
Did you know that beavers change their surroundings more than any other animal?
Aside from humans, of course.
I had no idea.
I never spent much time thinking about beavers.
Until I had a little boy whose books spark his imagination.
And make him surprise me with little things.
Like this.





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1.05.2011

Three Little Pigs

It's a good thing I froze some of my sugar cookie dough from Christmas Eve. On Sunday, Daniel surprised me with something special. It wasn't long before I put it to use. Nico makes me tell him the story of The Three Little Pigs multiple times every day, so he got a real kick out of making these. He even requested a big bad wolf. For some reason, I have a lobster cookie cutter which came kind of close. We only made one of those and it's long gone.

My sugar cookies still aren't stunning, but I think these are pretty cute.





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1.04.2011

Ubuntu



After reminiscing about my favorite Brooklyn spots of 2010, I started thinking about other memorable restaurant meals I had last year. The one that stands out most wasn't in Brooklyn, or even New York. It's a place in Napa that my Mom took me to during a Christmas trip to California. Had I not been on a blogging break back then, I would have taken many more photos, scribbled notes, and written about it right away. It's been a year since our visit, but it looks like Ubuntu, a "vegetable" restaurant with one Michelin star is still just as good.

We were in Sonoma with my brother and his family. Nico was 20 months at the time and my niece Adriana had just turned 2. With two little ones, it was easiest to eat most of our meals at home, but my Mom managed to sneak in a few lunch reservations, including one at Ubuntu. At first I didn't think it was a good idea. Not only was the restaurant 45 minutes away, but she made the reservation right in the middle of naptime. Believe me, I know how lame that sounds. I'm cringing even as I type it. Yet there I was, the girl who went from planning international trips around restaurants to a Mom determined to preserve her son's midday snooze.

It's a good thing my Mom knows what she wants. She insisted we go and I learned that if there's ever a time to let schedules slide, it's when you're on vacation.



Ubuntu was incredible. A cool and creative place that transforms seasonal and local produce—a lot is grown in the restaurant's biodynamic garden—into a series of small plates that could make me swear off meat forever. The space is sleek and modern and didn't feel too kid-friendly at first. Attached to a yoga studio, it was actually much more laid-back than it looked.

Nico and Adriana were happy, too. How could they not be with almond milk smoothies and a velvety cream cheese mousse served in a jar? We even lucked out by going at a time when a yoga class wasn't in session. The steps to the studio were right near our table, so instead of taking the kids outside to burn off some energy, we went one flight up and let them romp around there.

Ubuntu
1140 Main Street
Napa, California
707-251-5656








                                                               





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1.03.2011

A Place to Play in Greenpoint + Good Food


For my latest Mommy Poppins post, I spent a few mornings at Play in Greenpoint. Nico's beloved G train drops us off just a few blocks away and for lunch or a coffee to go, Five Leaves is nearby. The owners Wade and Katja are a lovely, creative and very inspiring couple who also have a children's clothing line Phoenix and Nola, named after their 19-month old twins. Bloomingdale's now carries the line, but you can check everything out at Play, too. For Christmas, I bought my nieces soft sweatshirts in the sweetest shades of lavender and pink, plus grey leggings with buttons on the ankles. If they came in my size, I would have bought similar outfits for myself. They're that cute.

Wade's worked at a bunch of Manhattan hot spots and we spent a lot of time talking about restaurants and food. He's the one who reminded me that Five Leaves is practically next door, and Fiore and El Amacen are his two other neighborhood favorites. The next time Daniel and I are able to sneak away for a dinner alone, we'll be at one of those.
















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1.01.2011

Brooklyn Food Favorites 2010

To kick off my first day of 2011, I'm remembering some of the Brooklyn spots I frequented in 2010. Many are old favorites and a few are new. Happy New Year!

Bklyn Larder
This is where I cheated on the Park Slope Food Coop and my favorite ice cream parlor a lot. Their toasted almond gelato is unreal and the first flavor I've liked as much, if not more than the strawberry from Blue Marble. It's also where I treated myself to the easiest—and most expensive—Thanksgiving ever.



The neighborhood place I've always dreamed about. It's affordable, kid-friendly, and the food is seasonal, often local, and downright delicious. 

Bark
Every time I got rid of old clothes and toys at Lulu's Then and Now, I'd walk a few blocks to blow my earning on high-end hot dogs.



The perfect place to splurge on a fancy 33rd birthday celebration with a big group of friends.




One Girl Cookies
It's rare that I eat breakfast anywhere other than home. But for my favorite bakery's homemade yogurt, granola and stewed fruit, I'll make an exception. Their coconut coffee cake is the last thing I ate before going into labor with Leo.




Cafe Pedlar
Where I go to get snacks before movies at Cobble Hill Cinemas—the pretzel sandwich with brie and butter is the best. It's also where I recently spent a rare afternoon alone with a chai latte, black forest braid and my new favorite cookbook.




Four and Twenty Blackbirds
The place I almost walked right by when it first opened because black bars on its window made it easy to miss. I'm forever thankful for my friend Karlyn who suggested we peek in. I've been back countless times for Brooklyn's best pie.


Brookies from Baked
A dessert I could eat every day.


Nunu Chocolates
The place where I led my first food tour. I love the handmade chocolates, cozy brown and blue space, and the friendly couple that owns it.




Mast Brothers Chocolate
I always keep a stash of these at home. Pricier than most, they're discounted at the Park Slope Food Coop. This makes my monthly shifts worth it.



Seersucker
Solid southern food makes this one of the best places to open on Smith Street in awhile. I visited a few times this summer and discovered two things: Red Hook rose, and that scallops and watermelon make a surprisingly good combination. 



The Double Windsor
A bar with really good food where Daniel and I shared a flight of beers and a salad with duck confit on our first night out after becoming parents of two.We saw The Swell Season in Prospect Park after.



Dub Pies
Decaf mochas with pretty froth designs make my day. Flaky meat pies are nice too.



Five Leaves
The place where I ate outside on a cold December day with a friend and two little boys, bumped into Kiefer Sutherland on his birthday, and must visit again before 2011 ends.


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