The sweetest ice cream sandwich

Below is a profile I wrote for my food writing class about Lisa Herlinger. I fell in love with her ice cream sandwiches during a trip to the Pacific Northwest this summer. Photos courtesy of Ruby Jewel Treats.

Sometime after college, I began scrutinizing food labels more closely and discovered a long list of unnatural ingredients in almost everything I ate. It was easy switching to all-natural breads, cereals and peanut butter, but healthier ice cream sandwiches (usually made with rice or soy-based ice cream) simply didn’t taste good. Then I tried my first Ruby Jewel Treat.

Created by Lisa Herlinger of Portland, Oregon, Ruby Jewel Treats are ice cream cookie sandwiches made with all-natural, all-northwest ingredients including locally grown mint, honey, lavender and hormone-free milk. “I went to an ice cream sandwich shop in L.A. and there was a line around the block,” the company’s 33-year old founder explains. “I realized that there really weren’t any good, natural ice cream sandwiches available in the northwest. As someone who has always loved ice cream, I was totally inspired.”


At night, Herlinger started experimenting with ice cream sandwich recipes at the restaurant where she worked as a day cook. She debuted her first two flavors (crisp lemon cookies with honey lavender ice cream and cinnamon chocolate chip cookies with locally roasted espresso ice cream) at a Portland farmers’ market later that summer. When batch after batch kept disappearing, Herlinger knew she’d found her niche.

“It’s a product that everyone loves,” she says of the cookie sandwiches named after a Colorado lake. “Unless you’re a vegan or on a diet, you’re going to get excited about them.”

And addicted. Since hitting Seattle and Washington store shelves in May 2005, Herlinger has sold over 50,000 of her chunky cookie sandwiches that are a steal at just $3.79 each.


The secret to her success? “It’s the ratio of cookie to ice cream that’s most important,” she says. “Having it so the ice cream is softened to the right temperature, that’s when the flavors and textures are perfect. The ones in supermarkets have so much air pumped into them, on top of all that other crap.”

Fun and unusual flavors also separate Ruby Jewels from standard supermarket sandwiches. In addition to her original two flavors, Herlinger now offers double chocolate cookies stuffed with rich peanut butter ice cream and dark chocolate cookies with Oregon grown mint ice cream (my personal favorite). Every season, she also tries to introduce a new flavor or two. Last summer, she used local fruits for the berry ice cream she slapped between two Snickerdoodles and this fall, a pumpkin ice cream (made with an organic puree) clings to chewy gingerbread cookies.

Herlinger used to make everything herself from scratch, but these days, a carefully selected Seattle bakery uses her secret recipe to make the cookies and a local dairy farmer provides an ice cream base as well as the lavender, honey and mint for signature flavors. Each sandwich is then handmade with the help of Herlinger's sister and just one other full-time employee. “We've got it down,” she says. “We can make 280 in an hour.”

To keep the amount of waste that is made from each Ruby Jewel Treat at a minimum, Herlinger sells broken cookies at the farmers’ market and is currently testing out corn-based biodegradable bags. “We recycle every box and anything that’s thrown away is minimal,” she says proudly. “We don’t even have a big trash can.”


As demand for Ruby Jewel Treats continues to grow, Herlinger has her sights set on Northern California. Her cookie sandwiches are available at a market in Ojai, and she hopes that Whole Foods will start carrying them this spring. As for east coast devotees like myself, Ruby Jewel Treats can be ordered online, but shipping costs are pricey.

When I ask Herlinger if she’s sick of eating Ruby Jewel Treats, she starts to giggle, then lets me in on a little secret. “I like to trade them at the farmers market for vegetables, bread and cheese. And sometimes when I drop them off at Hot Lips pizza, this organic place that carries them, I get a free slice. That’s when I really love my job. I get such a crazy high from that.”

Ruby Jewel Treats
Portland, Oregon; 503-805-8369; $3.79

The Catskills are calling

Daniel used to think quick getaways were non-existent in New York. Any escape from the city required a long drive, an even longer time stuck in traffic, and then of course, all those absurdly priced accomodations. In Rio de Janeiro, his native city, a secluded beach is just a short drive away and winding streets lead to secret waterfalls.

Then we spent a long weekend in the Catskills for our recent five-year wedding anniversary, and well, let’s just say he's had a change of heart. The area already held special meaning for us since we'd exchanged our vows in Wurtsboro, a small town close to, but not officially a part of the region; a lengthier visit proved that it truly is a little piece of paradise.

Searching for the perfect place to stay, we discovered The Villa at Saugerties, a hip bed & breakfast opened five years ago by a twentysomething couple from Manhattan. Aimee Szparaga, the former editor-in-chief of Playgirl and her then boyfriend (now husband) Richard Nocera, an aspiring artist were sick of spending all their money on rent and restaurants (welcome to my life), so they left the city after 10 years for a simpler life in the sticks. When we arrived at their new home in the late afternoon (after a painless, traffic-free drive, I might add), I felt the stress of the city instantly melt away.


The 4-bedroom stucco house sits on a couple acres and is surrounded by stone footpaths, a small pond and a converted barn where Aimee and Richard work and live. There's even a beautiful, blue-eyed horse named Diego.


Richard’s striking oil paintings and black and white photographs adorn the walls inside the villa and chic furnishings such as a vintage Knoll sofa, mid-century chairs, and Jonathan Adler pillows make it a truly modern retreat. Unlike other B&Bs that force guests to share their life stories over breakfast together in the morning, Aimee and Richard carved out a few cozy nooks in the airy, open kitchen, and even added a hot pink pantry that I wouldn't mind having in my own chic country home some day.


Our room wasn’t incredibly large, but I loved its antique iron bed and the bathroom’s soothing lilac walls (which I got to know fairly well after Daniel shoved me in there so he could set up a surprise). Somehow he'd managed to pack our car with two types of cheese from Stinky on Smith St., a bottle of champagne and the cutest piglet balloon (in honor of this very blog!).


Aimee’s delicious country breakfasts (we had omelets, pancakes and extra fluffy scrambled eggs during our visit) prepared us for the hiking that we did during the day (the North-South Lake loop offers a stunning view of the fall foliage), and Cafe with Love, a skinny sandwich spot satisfied our afternoon cravings.


Tomato red walls, an antique tin ceiling and brisk but efficient service reminded me we weren't too far from the city, and unbelievable soups and sandwiches made it clear that people in Saugerties are serious about their food. I had every intention of splitting the pesto, tomato and mozzarella toastie with Daniel, but after one garlicky, gooey bite, I selfishly decided to keep it all for myself (happy anniversary, honey!).



Since all good meals must end with dessert, we were happy to find the Hudson Valley Dessert Company hidden at the end of an alley next to Cafe with Love (a sign advertisting cupcakes helped us find our way). We were in Saugerties for just three days and I still managed to sample almost every single cookie on display.



I loved these little piglets, but if buttery sugar cookies aren't your thing, the chocolate chip with walnut, doughy thin mints and chocolate chip biscotti all tied for second.

For dinner, we went to Terrapin in Rhinebeck (about 40 minutes from Saugerties), and discovered what our waiter referred to as “Flinstonian” portions with a maple-brined, double thick pork chop the size of a brick and at The Bear Café in Woodstock, we gazed out at babbling brook while devouring homemade butternut squash ravioli in a tangy cider nage. Our only disappointing meal was at Miss Lucy’s. I loved the shabby chic decor and long list of homemade desserts, but the sloppy service and cold food would keep me from going back.

On our last day, we climbed trees at the Stone Ridge Orchard in search of Winesap, Rome and McIntosh apples and stopped off at a local farm stand to buy pumpkins and locally grown eggplant and kale.



And with just a few hours left, we went searching in Wurtsboro for a long, winding road that felt familiar.


The view was still as stunning as we remembered and though we'd last stood there five years ago, it didn't feel like that much time had passed.

The drive home was far from easy. The Columbus Day parade clogged up all the city streets and our car was hot and sweaty due to sudden summer weather. So we talked about the Catskills, our little piece of paradise and how we couldn't wait to go back.


The Villa at Saugerties
159 Fawn Road
Saugerties, NY
845-246-0682

Café with Love
85 Partition Street
Saugerties, NY
845-246-1795

Hudson Valley Dessert Company
87 Partition Street
Saugerties, NY
Tel: (845) 246-1545

The Bear Café
Rt 212
Woodstock, NY
845-679-5555

Miss Lucy’s Kitchen
90 Partition Street
Saugerties, NY
845-246-9240

Roxanne's 30 restaurants

Everyone should have a friend like Judith. She regularly reads my blog (and posts comments!), she cooks beef bourguignon for her husband even though she's a vegetarian, she spends her days making sure New York City is fully prepared for any possible disasters, she shares leftovers of her favorite apple crisp, and soon she'll be treating Roxanne to a luxurious 30th birthday dinner.

To find a place fit for such an occasion, Judith commissioned me to come up with a list of 30 restaurants (in exchange for extra complimentary TLP comments I'm assuming). Turnaround time was tight, but as many of you know, I take great pride in my restaurant recommendations. Tonight, the birthday girl will log on to This Little Piglet and select the spot of her choice.

Happy birthday Roxanne! My list is in no particular order, but since it reflects some of my most memorable meals, I couldn't resist reminiscing. You and Judith might need a TLP guest post to tell us all about your fancy dinner à deux.

1. Hearth: I once had the most amazing coconut soufflé at this cozy East Village spot.

2. 5 Ninth: This charming 3-story brownstone boasts six fireplaces, a beautiful garden, and once upon a time served the most amazing short ribs with blueberries.

3. Saul: Daniel and I like to splurge at Smith Street's most elegant restaurant on special occasions.

4. The River Cafe: The prices are high and the portions far too teeny, but this Brooklyn barge is most certainly blessed with the best views of Manhattan.

5. The Grocery: It was here that Daniel's mother, visiting from Munich, officially fell in love with Brooklyn and its residents (the tightly packed tables encourage diners to gush to one another about the amazing food).

6. Al Di La: Judith and I both love the beet ravioli with poppy seeds at this popular Park Slope trattoria.

7. Blue Hill at Stone Barns: If you're up for a day trip, head to Pocantico Hills for farm fresh food in stunning surroundings.

8. Wd~50: If extreme cuisine is your type of thing, you'll love Wylie Dufresne's Clinton Street science lab.

9. Knife + Fork: An Irish chef whips up a creative 6-course menu (and unbelievable homemade bread) in this East Village kitchen.

10. Gramercy Tavern: Definitely one of my top 5 favorite Manhattan restaurants for a fancy fall dinner.

11. Mercer Kitchen: This SoHo spot's subterranean space feels like a delicious secret.

12. Il Buco: Some say it's the best Italian in the city. I disagree, but do love its collection of country antiques.

13. Felidia: I have yet to visit this midtown favorite known for top-notch Italian and a slightly stuffy setting.

14. Bar Americain: Bobby Flay's lively brasserie has soaring ceilings and comfort food favorites.

15. Union Square Cafe: Between the warm service and fresher than fresh ingredients, this place is pretty close to perfect.

16. Public: Judith and I are both big fans of the creative cocktails, though I've only had a few bites of the inventive cuisine.

17. Spice Market: It's sexy and sultry. You'll feel 21 all over again.

18. Peasant: With a wood-burning fire and rustic decor, this Nolita spot is perfect during cooler months (and their fluffy, pillow-like gnocchi is to die for).

19. 'Cesca: Prepare to swoon over the cast-iron lamps, plush velvet and southern Italian cuisine.

20. Morimoto: Daniel's cousin Julius recently spoiled us with the nine-course tasting menu (and we sat next to Matthew Modine). Judith visited the one in Philly during our Digital City days.

21. Fresh: I love the soothing shades of blue and unbelievable seafood at this Tribeca favorite.

22. Telepan: It's all local and farm fresh at this restaurant that likes to salute each season.

23. Perry St.: The chocolate mousse with candied violets was one of the prettiest and most delicious desserts I've ever eaten (and that's saying a lot!).

24. Mas: I've talked Judith's ear off about my favorite French farmhouse and even worked it into her wedding present.

25. Annisa: I've always loved the name of Anita Lo's soothing West Village restaurant. I love it even more now that I know it means woman in Arabic.

26. Jewel Bako: People bow down to this small sushi spot that's pricey, but worth the splurge.

27. 5 Points: Laid-back and elegant with a brunch many swear by.

28. Woo Lae Oak: Sip lychee martinis while grilling your own meat and veggies at SoHo's swankiest BBQ joint.

29. Giorgione: Their Italian food is some of my favorite and the crowd is always lively and loud. It's an especially fun place for birthdays. If you end up going, you'll find out why.

30. Wallse: The service might be snooty but I'm a sucker for spaetzle.

Happy birthday to you, happy birthday to you, happy birthday ROXANNE, happy birthday to you!

An apple crisp for Judith

On Saturday night, Daniel and I planned on meeting friends at Franny's in Prospect Heights. Then around 6pm, plans started changing. Mark had suggested the pizza outing, but now wanted to enjoy everyone's company while watching the Mets. I had been craving Franny's all day, but was dreading the inevitable long lines at yet another reservationless Brooklyn restaurant.

Before we had to scratch our plans entirely, Judith and Tim invited everyone to their cozy Park Slope apartment (which happens to have a high-definition TV). Judith decided to make macaroni and cheese, Mark threw in his signature meatball subs, Scott was assigned veggies and dip, and just like that, our plans changed from pizza to impromptu potluck.

When trying to come up with a dessert that Daniel and I could bring over, I thought of the enormous bag of apples we'd picked during our anniversary trip in the Catskills last weekend. I first planned on just roasting them, then considered trying out the new cast iron pan I'd bought specifically for tarte tatin, but finally decided on Ina Garten's Old Fashioned Apple Crisp using a mixture of McIntosh, Winesap and Red Rome.

We prepared the crisp at home and baked it for about an hour once we arrived at Tim and Judith's. Though the apples had been bubbling as Ina said they would, they were still pretty firm, not soft and mushy as I had hoped. As I grumpily tried to cut the tough fruit with a spoon, Judith enthusiastically devoured hers. I complained that they needed to be more tender and she pointed out that their crunchier texture made it easier to appreciate the three types of apple. She also loved how the addition of orange zest and freshly squeezed juice added a tangy touch to the crisp. I felt it clashed a bit with the nutmeg and cinnamon. The chocolate chip ice cream we plopped on each piece (Key Foods was out of plain vanilla) was also a bit too unusual for me, but the bursts of chocolate worked well with the citrusy flavors.

I'm much more of an apple crisp purist, but because Judith's such a devoted fan of This Little Piglet, I thought I'd post the recipe, and the not so good pic we took of it, just for her.

I also thought I'd let her know that the next morning, Daniel woke up and immediately starting reheating the leftover crisp she'd packed up for us. I had a date with a 10:15 spinning class, but decided to cancel so Ina's dessert could have one more chance.

After another half hour or so in the oven, the apples finally softened, the orange flavor mellowed out a bit, and the buttery sweet topping became even crispier. It might not be the best dessert in my book, but as an early morning breakfast, it was delicious.

Old-Fashioned Apple Crisp
From Ina Garten's Barefoot Contessa Parties!
Serves 10

5 pounds McIntosh or Granny Smith Apples
Grated zest of 1 orange
Grated zest of 1 lemon
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed orange juice
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
½ cup granulated sugar
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground nutmeg

For the topping:
1 ½ cups all-purpose flour
¾ cup granulated sugar
¾ cup light brown sugar, packed
½ teaspoon kosher salt
1 cup oatmeal
½ pound cold unsalted butter, diced

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Butter a 9x14x2 inch oval baking dish (I use a 9 x 13 x 2 inch baking dish, but any baking dish will do. If it's small, use two).

Peel, core, and cut the apples into large wedges. Combine the apples with the zests, juices, sugar and spices. Pour into the prepared baking dish.

To make the topping, combine the flour, sugars, salt, oatmeal and cold butter in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Mix on low speed until the mixture is crumbly and the butter is the size of peas (about 5 minutes). Scatter evenly over the apples. Place the crisp on a sheet pan (juices tend to bubble over the sides of the baking dish) and bake for one hour until the top is brown and the apples are bubbly. Serve warm.

This Little Piglet goes to a restaurant

To help you find all my posts about Manhattan restaurants, I've created this list which I will be updating regularly. It will be easily accessible in the archive section of my blog, below the list of Brooklyn restaurants.

Chelsea
Cafe Grumpy
The Red Cat

Gramercy
Lady Mendl's Tea Salon
A Voce

Lower East Side
Alias

East Village
Caracas Arepa Bar
Momofuku Ssäm

West Village
Fatty Crab
Ino
The Spotted Pig
Wallse
BLT Burger
Cafe Cluny

Meatpacking District
La Bottega

SoHo
La Esquina
Salt

Tribeca
Province
Bouley

Union Square
Tarallucci e Vino

Upper East Side
Cafe Sabarsky

Upper West Side
Grom

Brooklyn Girls Night: Beast

Brooklyn Girls Night had been in a bit of a slump since summer. After more intimate gatherings at Ici in July and Alias in September, it seemed as if we’d never find another time to all get together. After too many emails to count, we finally agreed on a date. When Judith sent out a reminder for Thursday night’s outing, there were no last-minute cancellations and even three new members. Brooklyn Girls Night was back.

Five months since our last outing, a number of milestones had occurred. Judith had gotten married, Lucy turned 30, I celebrated my 5-year wedding anniversary, Allison became an aunt, and Roxanne was one week away from 30. Throw in our three new members Maggie, Molly and Mary Heath, and we had a lot to celebrate.

Judith had selected Beast, a tapas spot with a strange name in Prospect Heights. A quick haircut had me running late, so when I arrived with my blown out ‘do and much shorter bangs, I walked into the medieval style space (first snapping a cell phone shot of the bulletin board advertising ladies night -- that Judith is just so very practical, I tell you), and noted a slight resemblance to Corner Bistro with its long wooden bar and dark, cozy feel.

A waiter led me to the back room which I mistakenly thought had been reserved just for us. I shouted, a little too loudly, "It's laaaaaadies night!” which made the Brooklyn girls laugh wildly, but our fellow diners didn’t seem so pleased. My Mom's constant complaint, "Why are women so LOUD?" came to mind.

A few bottles of Rioja had already been ordered (and I wish I remembered the name because at $26 a bottle, it was good stuff), and everyone was hungry and ready to eat. We decided to each order one thing from the menu and share. Always fearful of not having enough food (I really think I must have been starved in another life or something, because this fear often causes me to over order and then, unable to waste, overeat), I was still unsure whether to go with the beer braised short ribs or the lamb skewers. Allison whispered to just get both, so I sneakily placed my order, then quickly apologized to Judith, the one vegetarian member of the group.

I’d heard a lot about Maggie, a personal chef who lives in the Williamsburg apartment above Roxanne (that was once Judith’s), and we immediately hit it off. She was funny and engaging, just as Roxanne had described, and her relationship with Molly, her warm and genuine best friend, was incredibly inspiring. Mary Heath, a food photographer, had met Lucy a few years ago when their dogs Montana and Madison fell in love at Lucia, the Park Slope store Lucy owns (a great spot for shoes, clothes and jewelry that you can learn more about here). We were seated at opposite ends of the table, so while we didn't have much chance to talk this time around, I hope we will at our next outing.

I also didn't have a chance to check out the decor and I never did find out why the restaurant has such an unusual name. What I do remember is that the back room we were in was hot, either from lack of ventilation, all that red wine we were drinking or probably a bit of both. The space was fairly simple, and our long, rectangular table perfect for a large group, but if I were to go back with less people, I'd prefer the cozier front room.

As for the food, I couldn't keep up with it (surprise, surprise!) once the plates started circling the table. I tasted an assortment of cheeses, including one particularly pungent one, served with Sullivan Street bakery bread, a number of different salads though it's the arugula with citrusy fennel and a tangy feta that stood out, some unexciting short ribs that lacked the strong, meaty flavor I was craving, perfectly seasoned lamb skewers that were delicious after a dip in a pea puree, house marinated olives with hunks of garlic and a cinnamon stick, fresh from the green market roasted vegetables (which Maggie explained can be achieved by using more salt and olive oil than you think you’d need), marinated slices of chorizo, tender free range chicken with a garlic confit, and a potato-egg tortilla (my personal favorite).

My small plate was overflowing with all these oversized tapas, and while I probably could have eaten even some more, four of Beast's five desserts finally filled me up. There was an extra buttery sticky toffee pudding (the best one Maggie and Roxanne had ever tasted in their lives), S’mores, a dark chocolate mousse, and grilled bananas that I, too busy scooping up the last bites of some sticky marshmallows, forgot to try.

I had left my camera at home and since the room was dimly lit, I wasn't too disappointed about not getting any food photos. But I did make sure to ask our waitress to take one photo of us before we all finally said goodybe. It's not the best picture, but I still love it.



Right when I thought I couldn't love Brooklyn any more, I get that much more obsessed. Brooklyn Girls Night is back. And it's better than ever.

Beast
638 Vanderbilt Avenue
Brooklyn, NY
718-399-6855

Brazil, from the beginning

Daniel and I are in the midst of planning our post-Christmas trip to Brazil. In honor of our upcoming vacation, I thought I'd post a personal essay that I recently wrote for my food writing class. Consider it a prelude to all the stories and photos from Brazil you'll be treated to in a few months. (This photo of Rio de Janeiro is from Editora Céu Azul de Copacabana, a company owned by Daniel's friend Felix Richter).

My plan was to stay two weeks in Brazil. I’d finally get to see Daniel’s country, meet his friends and family, but then I’d have to head home, the uncertainty of our future still uncertain. But after just a few days, I said I’d stay.

The first few weeks were blissful. Daniel took me to little hidden waterfalls scattered throughout Rio, to Pão de Açucar (Sugarloaf Mountain) where we admired the breathtaking views alongside mischievous monkeys, to all-you-can-eat meat restaurants where thick, juicy pieces of picanha were carved off skewers at a dizzying pace. I met his friends, his family, and fell in love with a side of him I’d never known while we were at college together in the States.

But soon my reality as an outsider started to set in. Sometimes we bumped into his sultry ex-girlfriends and at the beach I became uncomfortable, my J. Crew bikini much more conservative than the sexier Brazilian ones, my skin pale and pasty. At night, when we hung out with Daniel’s friends, I often remained silent as they spoke rapidly in Portuguese, my few contributions feeling straight from a textbook and forced. When we went to samba shows, I loved how the pounding drums made me feel, but hated how my hips moved so clumsily.

Everything about Brazil began to intimidate me, and food became my escape. I traded in my light lunches for the more customary large midday meal, finding comfort in our housekeeper Sandra’s black beans cooked with smoked pork, her tomato, okra and chicken stews, the fluffy white rice she made by first sautéing some garlic, olive oil and dry grains in a pan.

When we went out to a local padaria in the morning for breakfast, I listened to Daniel as he ordered my coffee, paying close attention when he said “bem clarinho” or very clear to help describe the alarming amount of milk I needed to cut some very strong coffee. When I was alone, I tried to order exactly as he did, knowing I’d be rewarded not only with my version of perfect coffee, but a much needed confidence boost. I continued practicing my pronunciation at Rio’s many lanchonetes, ordering exotic freshly squeezed juices, including pitanga, acerola and caju to wash down my chicken, cheese and pineapple sandwiches. And even though I eventually converted to a more fashionable bikini, I didn’t let my new skimpy swimwear stop me from devouring at least one hefty pão de queijo, a popular chewy cheese bread, every single day.

When I discovered meia-luas at a bakery near the school where I was studying, I used that as a topic of conversation with Daniel’s friends, delighted to find I had a fairly easy time expressing my love for the cream-filled, crescent treats. I also started ordering caipirinhas, Brazil’s national cocktail made with crushed lime, sugar cane liquor and sugar, when we’d all go out. Potent, but super sweet, I liked how after just one or two, I usually eased up a bit, feeling more confident with my Portuguese.

My visa only allowed me to stay in Rio for six months, so I was forced to leave right when my Portuguese was really picking up. Daniel and I broke up, but got back together soon after and are now married and living in New York. Each year, we go back to Rio for a few weeks to visit. My Portuguese always feels rusty at first, and I’m not always racing to get into my teeny bikini, but I know after a few good meals, I’ll start to feel at home again.

Butternut squash and hazelnut lasagne

I'm a big fan of fall. The air gets cool and crisp, the leaves change color, my sweaters and scarves come back into rotation, and best of all: unfussy summer foods get replaced by sauce slicked strands of pasta, bubbling pot pies, hearty stews and a certain butternut squash and hazelnut lasagne.

Ever since discovering it four years ago in an issue of Gourmet, this is the recipe I turn to when the temperature dips sometime around the end of September and the air starts to slightly sting my nose. I like to consider it my ode to autumn.


Unlike a more traditional lasagne with a red sauce and meat, this one relies on a combination of toasted hazelnuts, tender chunks of squash, grated Parmiggiano-Reggiano, slices of fresh mozzarella, a hearty sprinkling of sage and a silky bechamel sauce. Together, the bright layers look, smell and taste like fall.

I made one last Sunday to bring over to Marie and Joe who welcomed their first child, Lachlan, on September 25, just four days after the official start of the season. I couldn't be happier that he's here (those nine months really feel like forever!), but think he picked the perfect time to finally make his appearance.



Butternut Squash and Hazelnut Lasagne
From Gourmet

For squash filling
1 large onion, chopped
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 lb butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and cut into 1/2-inch pieces
1 teaspoon minced garlic
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon white pepper
2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
4 teaspoons chopped fresh sage
1 cup hazelnuts (4 oz), toasted, loose skins rubbed off with a kitchen towel, and coarsely chopped

For sauce
1 teaspoon minced garlic
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
5 tablespoons all-purpose flour
5 cups milk
1 bay leaf (not California)
1 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon white pepper

For assembling lasagne
1/2 lb fresh mozzarella, coarsely grated (2 cups)
1 cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (3 oz)
12 (7- by 3 1/2-inch) sheets no-boil lasagne (1/2 lb)

Make filling:
Cook onion in butter in a deep 12-inch heavy skillet over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until golden, about 10 minutes. Add squash, garlic, salt, and white pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until squash is just tender, about 15 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in parsley, sage, and nuts. Cool filling.

Make sauce while squash cooks:
Cook garlic in butter in a 3-quart heavy saucepan over moderately low heat, stirring, 1 minute. Whisk in flour and cook roux, whisking, 3 minutes. Add milk in a stream, whisking. Add bay leaf and bring to a boil, whisking constantly, then reduce heat and simmer, whisking occasionally, 10 minutes. Whisk in salt and white pepper and remove from heat. Discard bay leaf. (Cover surface of sauce with wax paper if not using immediately.)

Assemble lasagne:
Preheat oven to 425°F.

Toss cheeses together. Spread 1/2 cup sauce in a buttered 13- by 9- by 2-inch glass baking dish (or other shallow 3-quart baking dish) and cover with 3 pasta sheets, leaving spaces between sheets. Spread with 2/3 cup sauce and one third of filling, then sprinkle with a heaping 1/2 cup cheese. Repeat layering 2 more times, beginning with pasta sheets and ending with cheese. Top with remaining 3 pasta sheets, remaining sauce, and remaining cheese.

Tightly cover baking dish with buttered foil and bake lasagne in middle of oven 30 minutes. Remove foil and bake until golden and bubbling, 10 to 15 minutes more. Let lasagne stand 15 to 20 minutes before serving.

Note from Lia: Daniel and I like to grate amaretti cookies on top of pumpkin ravioli and were happy to discover that it adds an equally sweet and crunchy touch to slices of this lasagna as well.

Cooks' note:
• Filling and sauce can be made 1 day ahead and kept separately, covered and chilled. Bring to room temperature before assembling.

Makes 6 servings.

Battle of the Banh Mi

Earlier this summer, thanks to Hanco's, a new Vietnamese sandwich shop located blocks from our apartment, Daniel and I became obsessed with banh mi. When Nicky’s Vietnamese Sandwiches opened a few weeks ago on Atlantic Avenue, also within blocks of our apartment, we became overwhelmed by all our options. To help us figure out which place serves the best sandwich, we decided to have our very own Battle of the Banh Mi!

Sometimes referred to as a Vietnamese sub, these French-inspired sandwiches are made by stuffing mini baguettes with pickled carrot, cucumber, daikon, cilantro and some type of meat, the most popular choices being Vietnamese paté, shredded chicken or marinated pork. For those who like their food with a little heat, banh mi should be eaten with some squirts of tongue-tingling sriracha sauce.

Dressed appropriately in loose fitting clothes, we began the battle at Nicky's Vietnamese Sandwiches. Located on bustling Atlantic Avenue, Nicky’s is bright and airy with orange colored walls, decorative art, warm lighting and a soothing sound system.



When we arrived, there were a few people finishing their last bites of banh mi, but just minutes after we placed our order for one classic and one pork chop sandwich, the place became packed.



We waited a few minutes at a cozy corner table before two sandwiches stuffed with thick carrot strands, a handful of cilantro, and extra crunchy cucumbers arrived on simple ceramic plates. The mini baguettes were both warm and crackly.



We started with the pork chop sandwich which contained roasted pieces of pork that were sweet, fatty, and very reminiscent of the spare ribs I loved to gnaw on as a kid whenever my family ordered Chinese food. We had ordered both of our sandwiches spicy (which I think is a must if you want to fully appreciate the cooling effects of the cilantro and vegetables), though it wasn’t until I reached the end of my first half that I discovered a few thick rounds of jalapeno. Happy to see them, but wondering why they took so long to show up, I took one final big bite, my lips burning as I chewed.

Next came the classic, the most traditional but also adventurous offering on the five sandwich menu. Stuffed wtih paté, Vietnamese ham, roasted ground pork, and the requisite pickled carrots, cucumber, cilantro and mayo, the whole package was a bit too pungent, the taste of the Vietnamese paté (which I soon found out is actually pork liver) overpowering all of the other flavors. Daniel liked the classic more than I did, but he was disappointed by the underwhelming ground pork, and could barely taste any of the Vietnamese ham.

Already full after one banh mi each (the amount we usually have on normal outings), we walked the six or so blocks over to Bergen Street, where Hanco's is located.



Hanco's is slightly smaller than Nicky’s and though there are a handful of tables, the space isn’t quite as cozy. It's a bit stuffy as well with a strong smell of Vietnamese sandwiches which won’t bother you if you’re just running in and out, but eating there would be more pleasant with an airier ambiance. Luckily, the one outdoor table was available, so we settled in there before our sandwiches, served on paper plates, were ready.



The bread was warm and toasty with a thin layer of butter on each half. Though the vegetables didn't seem as fresh as the ones at Nicky's, their pickled flavor was much more apparent, adding a sweet, tangy flavor to each bite.



Daniel and I both agreed that Hanco's serves a better classic sandwich, perhaps because each type of meat was easily distinguishable and nicely seasoned. I didn’t find the Vietnamese paté to be nearly as strong, and Daniel was happy that the ground pork had no problem standing up to the more powerful flavors.



As for the pork chop sandwich, I preferred the one at Hanco's, the pieces of meat bigger with less fat. Daniel thought the pork at Nicky's was actually lighter and he felt they stuffed their sandwiches with more of it.



We both agreed that Hanco's used more mayonnaise on their sandwiches, which they mixed with sriracha sauce, helping to deliver heat bite by bite (unlike Nicky's where it's dramatically unleashed at the very end). The extra mayo does make their banh mi a bit heavy, so I would prefer a little less, but the combination of condiments did keep the sandwich from becoming dry.

Once we'd finished our final two spicy sandwiches, we compared notes and decided that Hanco's was the winner of the banh mi battle -- but just by a pig's nose, as Daniel insisted I mention (is that even a saying?). Even though it's located a few doors down from the Bergen Street subway station (extra convenient for take-out right after work), it's still a bit off the beaten path; Nicky's is more well known due to another location on the Lower East Side. And as for the slightly stuffy and smaller setting? We feel that when you're paying $4.25 for a meal, you shouldn't expect much ambiance any way.

Hanco's
85 Bergen Street
Brooklyn, NY
718-858-6818

Nicky’s Vietnamese Sandwiches
311 Atlantic Avenue
Brooklyn, NY
718-855-8838